In the heart of the homonymous valley, which seems to come out of a Tolkien book, Osteria Candalla is a truly unique spot in the Lucca area. Hosted inside an ancient nineteenth-century mill, with its exotic cocktail bar by the river, it is a must for a lunch or a very romantic dinner in a delightfully unconventional Camaiore.
Between Camaiore and Casoli, the Candalla waterfalls are an oasis of peace hidden in the Apuan Alps, the perfect destination for a reinvigorating escape into the woods. Here, among ancient buildings that once housed factories and mills, Osteria Candalla is an unmissable stop for lovers of local cuisine and riverside atmospheres.
Osteria Candalla was born in 2008 from the dream of 4 Tuscan entrepreneurs who are still personally involved in its management. Massimo, the skilled host, Daniela and Alessandro, known for having opened a renowned concept store on the Versilia coast, and Giulio, an architect, who takes care of the image of the place with great attention to detail.
As the seasons change in Candalla you see wonderful things happening like for instance, in late July, the river getting filled up with blue butterflies.
(Giulio, architect and owner)
The restaurant was born from the recovery of an ancient nineteenth-century mill where, until the 1950s, chestnut flour was processed. The restoration was personally supervised by Giulio who completely redesigned the internal work spaces while keeping the fascinating authenticity of the exteriors intact.
The original stone walls, the terraces that descend to the river, the use of natural materials, such as wood and iron, give Candalla a truly irresistible rustic charm. The furnishings are elegantly essential, embellished with refined details such as the Ceramiche Virginia of Montelupo. These pieces have been chosen both for the mise en place and for the decorative objects, such as the frogs that wink from the corners of the room, recalling the riverside soul of the place.
The cuisine is seasonal with a lot of research on raw materials, from cheeses to cold cuts to meats, which enhances local excellence. A real must are the typical pasta dishes like the famous tordelli from Camaiore with cinta and Chianina ragù or the fragrant testaroli with ancient grains and pesto of pistachio, celery, basil and lime.
While, among the second courses, are definitely worth a mention peposo, a beef stew with wine and pepper, and Cinta Senese buttera, to finish with the homemade mignon pastry, the dessert that accompanies the Osteria from the first day. The wine list is extensive, entrusted to the sensitivity of Alessandro and the sommelier Eva, with 300 labels ranging from the best local and Italian niche wineries.
At the foot of the Osteria, lapped by the waters of the Rio Lombricese, the Banana’s Bar is a fascinating temporary cocktail bar surrounded by banana trees which, with its tropical mood, brings you back to the exotic atmospheres of South-East Asia. Here, among recycled objects, old demijohns and sofas, it is possible to sip a drink artfully prepared by the barlady Chiara.
Absolutely to try the Black Hot Margarita, embellished with a corolla of black salt on the glass, the Pampelmousse, a refreshing non-alcoholic cocktail based on grapefruit juice with ginger and mint, or the Negroni by beach, prepared with artisanal Tuscan bitters, vermouth and gin. The cocktail bar, open only in the summer and for the exclusive use of the Osteria’s customers, is the perfect choice to immerse yourself in this breathtaking atmosphere, a special prelude to an undoubtedly unforgettable lunch or dinner.
The Secret
On the wall of the external terrace overlooking the river there is a composition of colored ceramic plates. Hand-made by Ceramiche Virginia di Montelupo is a tribute, designed by Giulio, to the ancient mill wheel that was positioned precisely in that point of the building.
Useful Info
Osteria Candalla
Via di Candalla 264
55041 Camaiore, Lucca
Tel. +39 0584 984381
Entrées: 12 — 15 euro
First courses: 12 — 15 euro
Main courses: 12 — 25 euro
Cocktails: from 10 euro
