Art&Style

What to see in a weekend in Florence

A romantic itinerary

by CLARA GALANTI
Atelier-de-Nerli-Toscana-Secrets

Let’s discover the city cradle of the Renaissance, among historic cafes, charming restaurants, and dreamy hotels.

Our journey begins in the charming neighborhood of Sant’Ambrogio, one of Florence’s most vibrant and authentic districts, thanks to its famous historic market and the Benedictine church of the same name, rich in art and mysteries to be discovered, such as the Chapel of the Miracle. Here, among magnificent frescoes and illustrious figures, rests Andrea del Verrocchio, Leonardo’s master and creator of the famous bronze statue of David.

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To fully experience the most authentic mood of this neighborhood, so beloved by Florentines, we recommend a stop by Cibrèo Caffè, which embodies the very essence of the Florentine lifestyle based on good food, friendliness, and great aesthetics. Founded by the charismatic Fabio Picchi in 1989, the café is reminiscent of late 19th-century variety show bistros and complements the nearby Cibrèo Ristorante.

From Sant’Ambrogio, strolling through Florence’s famous shopping streets, you can quickly reach Procacci in Via de’ Tornabuoni, another landmark of city life since 1885. Its legendary truffle sandwiches have even conquered the Prince of Piedmont Umberto of Savoy, who granted it the Royal Coat of Arms, making it a supplier to the Royal House.

This fascinating “luxury food store,” as the original 1921 sign reads, offers delicacies of all kinds, including the Daniele Sorlut Oysters, also known as “the perfect oysters.” Today owned by the Marchesi Antinori family, it retains its retro charm, making it an unmissable stop for gourmands.

Atelier-de-Nerli-Toscana-Secrets
Atelier-de-Nerli-Toscana-Secrets

In a quarter of an hour by foot, you reach the historic district of San Frediano in Oltrarno where you can visit the most beautiful artisan workshops in Florence. In this extraordinary setting we find Atelier de’ Nerli, a restaurant with the soul of an art gallery, created by the genius of Daniele Cavalli together with chef Gianluca Camilotto. Furnished with works by the most prestigious local art masters, you can breathe a timeless allure made of precious details, such as the antique terracotta floor and custom-made marbles. Here, chef Camilotto offers traditional recipes that are based on the excellence of the raw material and a maximum of three ingredients to best enhance their flavor.

What if after lunch you are offered a coffee at Beatrice’s home, Dante’s muse? In the main courtyard of Palazzo Portinari Salviati, a noble Florentine palace that has seen the most illustrious figures of Florence’s history passing through its walls, lies the romantic Salotto Portinari Bar & Bistrot.

Masterfully orchestrated by chef Vito Mollica, together with the adjacent starred restaurant Atto di Vito Mollica hosted in the Court of the Emperors of the Palace, it is perfect for carving out a moment of gourmet relaxation immersed in legend.

Palazzo-Strozzi-Toscana-Secrets

A stone’s throw from Palazzo Portinari Salviati, there is the imposing Palazzo Strozzi, a protagonist of Florentine cultural life for 500 years and home to prestigious exhibitions conceived by Arturo Galansino, the General Director of the Palazzo Strozzi Foundation and one of the greatest art curators of our time.

The palace, gigantic in its proportions, was built at the behest of Filippo Strozzi, an Italian politician and banker who, to show off his power, wanted to erect the largest and tallest building of the time.

Right in front of Palazzo Strozzi, inside Palazzo dello Strozzino, lays the charming Giunti Odeon bookshop, formerly one of the most important Art Nouveau cinema and theatre in Italy, recently converted into a cultural arena where cinema, literature, and a café bistro coexist thanks with a wide and diversified event calendar.

For an aperitif, whether it’s the city’s most iconic Bloody Mary or a sparkling wine served according to the fascinating sabrage ritual, The St. Regis Florence is undoubtedly the perfect choice. In its beautiful Winter Garden, lounge bar and restaurant, you can forget the time to the notes of a piano that recalls the atmospheres of the most romantic films of all time. The right address for a fairytale stay, thanks to the impeccable service that distinguishes The St. Regis brand, founded in New York by John Jacob Astor IV more than a century ago with the dream of creating “the perfect hotel”.

In less than half an hour, walking along the Arno and admiring a mirrored Florence that lights up as the evening falls, you arrive at Saporium, the gourmet project of the resort Borgo Santo Pietro by Ariel Hagen, a young and talented chef awarded in 2023 with a red and a green Michelin star. An experience that reveals the great research that supports it in every detail: from the surprising aesthetics of each dish, to the discovery of the extraordinary farm-to-table raw materials used to create it, to the new combinations that make each recipe a journey to be savored.

For those looking for more exotic flavors, Il Gusto di Xinge is the address not to be missed. Just a fifteen-minute walk from The St. Regis Florence, this original venue is the stage of the fascinating chef Xin Ge Liu, with a background as a fashion designer. A magical place where you can satisfy your five senses with extraordinary recipes from the Chinese tradition, from dim sum to the tastiest bao.

Crossing Via della Scala, less than a quarter of an hour away, you will find The Place, a delightful boutique hotel with a privileged view of the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella, one of the symbols of Florence. The Place embodies the quintessence of refined hospitality that finds its authentic expression in attention to detail. An aperitif at its cocktail bar is a must to try one of the house’s signature cocktails, such as the Prince of Florence, served in a silver goblet, or the Gentleman, a surprising Smoky Negroni.

For an unusual cultural break, one of the unmissable addresses is the Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, literally a stone’s throw from The Place. Here, time stopped four centuries ago when, in 1221, the convent complex of the Dominican friars was founded, a Renaissance masterpiece, which still preserves a unique apothecary tradition in the world.

Among its fascinating rooms, antique furnishings and stucco ceilings, there are also extraordinary collections of antique instruments, stills and pharmacy jars signed by ceramics from Montelupo, Richard-Ginori and Chini.

In addition to producing its own lines of fragrances for body care and beauty, the Officina also periodically hosts contemporary art installations that are open to the public free of charge.

Happy weekend in Florence!

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